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  • Reservations Recommended

    Restaurant Review ~ Brothers and Sisters (Line Hotel) / 1770 Euclid St., NW

    Siblings, Enjoy. Apparently one of the most newsworthy and noteworthy recent events in Adams-Morgan — and maybe in DC itself — has been the opening of the Line Hotel. According to its online write-up, the hotel was built (maybe “created” is a better word) by local “chefs, bartenders, and artists.” Whatever its origin, this newbie is one in a small national collection (two others) of Line hotels.

    This one is located in an old church — hence the vaulted ceilings, formal interior, and stairways up to the main entrance. But unlike other hotels, its main restaurant, Brothers and Sisters, is located in the entrance lobby, a space that takes up a large portion of the main floor. There, on couches and at shared and small tables sit patrons (or guests?) reading, sipping cocktails, working on computers (the large shared tables have computer hookups, though not computers) and enjoying meals — either breakfast, lunch, or dinner.

    Despite its rather formal appearance, the lobby is really a comfy place to settle in, and it looks like folks must do that all day long. In fact, the fellow across from me had been at his computer for some hours. But if you come to eat, grab one of the many seats (reservations apparently for more formal areas needed at mealtimes) and join what looks like a large percentage of DCers who are out for the day.

    The lunch/dinner menu (you must read it backwards — honestly) offers a small assortment of snacks, cold plates, small and large plates, and desserts. Personally, if you want the best of sweet treats, start with dessert.

    Outstanding, really outstanding, is the Mykonos, a triple cheesecake that comes as a large three-layer wedge, and is as smooth and creamy as a bowl of sour and whipped cream. You may want to order two, and call it a day. True, there are other sweet options – “The London,” an Earl Grey crêpe; “The Brooklyn,” with cocoa and banana; and “The Rome,” with pistachio, almonds, and orange, plus more, though it’s unclear if these are cakes or just plain desserts

    But, of course, you need sustenance. Starting with snacks, a top choice is the roasted Brussels sprouts decked out with cooked onions and a drizzle of dressing. You could also order French fries with béarnaise, or chicharrones with a French onion dip.

    Among the cold plates are several salads, such raw tuna as tuna crudo, and a caviar tray. But if you look to keep calories for dessert, order the Caesar salad — note, Romaine lettuce leaves are stacked one atop another, and a few more gratings of fresh Parm would be great.

    Other than that the small and large plate choices one can consider noodles with sausage, a very pricey double burger, and an even pricier pork chop at $43 — wow. But if one will focus on dessert one will leave the casual lobby scene as happy as a clam. Note that this restaurant offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but the Line also offers a fancier and even more pricey dinner-only restaurant, A Rake’s Progress.

    Brothers and Sisters / Every day:  breakfast, 6:30-11am; lunch & dinner, 11:30-12:30 the next a.m.  / (202) 588-0525.


    Alexandra Greeley is a food writer, editor, and restaurant reviewer. She has authored books on Asian and Mexican cuisines published by Simon & Schuster, Doubleday, and Macmillan. Other credits include restaurant reviews and food articles for national and regional publications, as well as former editor of the Vegetarian Times and former food editor/writer for the South China Morning Post in Hong Kong. Click here to visit her website.