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Reservations Recommended

Restaurant Review ~ GBD / 1323 Conn. Ave., NW

Three little letters, GBD: Unless you read the actual translation, GBD could mean nothing to you, unless you came up with Good Bye, Dolly, or something like that. Or unless you are a dedicated DC foodie, who eats around town a lot.

Then you will know what these letters really mean — Golden Brown Delicious — the name of the little eatery that is home to golden-brown chicken and delicious doughnuts. And chances are great that you have had many splurges on their sometimes square, sometimes round doughnuts!

Tucked into a small setting that might once have housed another eatery (?), GBD is more a take-out than a sit-down place, though tables and bar stools — even outdoor seating in good weather — allow patrons to order their food and eat before hitting the streets again. In fact, you can order one of the store’s dozen or so donuts of different flavors, step to the side, and munch while you wait for the kitchen staff to serve up your sandwich with or without sides. Oddly, it looks like most of the doughnuts are not the traditional rounded shape, but squared instead, often drizzled with something sticky and sweet. Try the raspberry-flavored treat for a delicious snack.

Of course, the main deals here are the chicken pieces and the doughnuts, sold separately or formed into sandwiches. You may ask, a chicken-doughnut sandwich? As odd as that may sound, the idea works. Best bet: the Luther, which is a squared doughnut drizzled with a maple syrup and sandwiching crunchy bacon and crispy-golden chicken breast—boneless, of course. The sandwich is insanely delicious, though the sides of soggy French fries could not compare.

But other sandwiches — such as the chicken and waffle and the fried chicken thigh on a bun — may be good options, too. You can also pick up a salad or an order of crispy wings and pair all that with such sides as pickled eggs, biscuits, fried plantains, or panko-dusted fried brie. You even get your choices of dipping sauces for a small chunk of change, ranging from a fiery General Satan’s sauce to chipotle bbq sauce.

No need to search for dessert, of course, since anyone’s sweet tooth benefits from a box or bagful of yummy doughnuts. You can even stop by for breakfast, or Sunday brunch when the menu changes slightly, but doughnuts are still on hand. A website comment notes that the maple bacon bourbon doughnut was “blowing my mind.” No wonder.

And if you are a happy hour go-to person, you may be blown away by the choice of beverages. From punches, cocktails and whiskies to “fried chicken” and “doughnut” beers, happy hour folks can get their happy on for sure, while munching on doughnuts and fried chicken. What could be more tempting, after all?

GBD / Hours: Tue.-Wed. 8am-midnight, Thu.-Fri. to 2am; Sat. 10am-2am, Sun. to midnight. 202-524-5210; www.gbdchickendoughnuts.com.

Alexandra Greeley is a food writer, editor, and restaurant reviewer. She has authored books on Asian and Mexican cuisines published by Simon & Schuster, Doubleday, and Macmillan. Other credits include restaurant reviews and food articles for national and regional publications, as well as former editor of the Vegetarian Times and former food editor/writer for the South China Morning Post in Hong Kong. Click here to visit her website.