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Reservations Recommended

Restaurant Review ~ Seasons / 2800 Pennsylvania Ave., NW

It’s the Season for Splurging at Brunch

Perhaps tourists visiting DC spend too much time looking around for the ultimate eating experience. After all, the nation’s capital has become a food mecca. Numerous chefs and restaurateurs have zeroed in on the city, offering residents so many options that one could easily dine out daily and probably not repeat a cuisine.

But one dining destination may really top them all: it’s the Seasons Sunday brunch. Located downstairs in the Four Seasons Hotel, the restaurant has both indoor — and in clement weather — outdoor seating. Indoors, however, is the real foodie draw, because it seems that in every tempting space the chef and kitchen staff have set up food stations, from carving to waffles to desserts to main dishes to cheeses/breads/crackers and more.

Seemingly, the menu changes often, certainly seasonally, but lucky patrons may get their chance to dive into such seafood appetizer dishes as oysters on the half shell, crab Louie, ahi tuna with mango salsa, snapper ceviche, an abundant serving dish of cooked shrimp, and seared scallops. Portions are small, so it is easy enough to load up on what may really be appetizers — or not. Fortunately, devotees can pile up the shrimp and for tuna lovers, several small cups of the ahi tuna with mango salsa.

Fortunately, staff quickly whisk away used cutlery and plates, readying the setting for the patrons’ next go-around. Try the carving station, where one may be lucky enough to enjoy the recent offerings of the slow-roasted beef steak slices nestled in a rich gravy and the grilled lamb chops. The chops can be perked up with a dollop or two of tzatziki sauce. Also small Maryland crab cakes come with Old Bay tartar sauce. And accompanying these meaty dishes the chef may offer a sublimely rich and creamy macaroni and cheese — several scoops may be more than enough. Plus, the kitchen puts out a serving dish of cooked butternut squash slices. The menu states that the chef makes seasonal selections, so possibly butternut squash may be replaced with a different seasonal veggie.

Market salads and soups are on display. But perhaps the next stop should be the omelet station where the cook tailors them to a patron’s preference — very good with plenty of cheese and chopped parsley. Also freshly cooked waffles, served in small portions, come with butter and maple syrup. That station also offers crunchy bacon, sausages, and breakfast potatoes.

Not eaten enough? Try the cheese display table and then wrap up your feasting with a stroll around the dessert spread. Once again, the options on display are small, allowing patrons to load up dessert plates with wedges of cakes and tarts, plus shot glasses with assorted yummy fillings. But if you like Key Lime pie, the offering on the table is a knockout. Take two, and ask for espresso to finish the feasting.

Seasons /. Hours: breakfast daily; lunch, Sat. 11am-2pm; brunch, Sun. 10:30am-2pm — reservations suggested. (202) 342-0444.

Alexandra Greeley is a food writer, editor, and restaurant reviewer. She has authored books on Asian and Mexican cuisines published by Simon & Schuster, Doubleday, and Macmillan. Other credits include restaurant reviews and food articles for national and regional publications, as well as former editor of the Vegetarian Times and former food editor/writer for the South China Morning Post in Hong Kong. Click here to visit her website.